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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:29 pm 
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Changed my battery 6 months ago and still no issues. As a matter of fact it performs better than the original as I get 2 hours more of video playback with wifi and bluetooth on, no swelling or leaking.

Your archos is suffering from one of two issues. You got a bad battery (unlikely) or you damaged the battery pcb (most likely). If the pcb is damaged not only can't proper charge levels be displayed but worse yet the battery will never stop charging which leads to swelling than explosion.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:17 pm 
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I got my replacement battery in last Thursday and so far so good. Great up time, all seems to be A o.k.!


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 2:29 pm 
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Right you people in the UK. Salvation is finally here. Found a place that can do it. Send it to them and they do it next day, and send it back all for £29.99. you have to pay postage to them. Found them on EBay, rang them to discuss, and the guy said he went to China to bring the batteries back because he needed one for his own unit.

EBay I/D Home_Base_Repairs

They are actually Sat Nav Repairs in London

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI. ... OU:GB:1123

Got mine back, charged it up, and played videos for 4-1/2 hours before it went off. Think was about the average length before the change.

Happy buying guys :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:11 pm 
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Looks just the thing I need , 48 was on charge all night and only lasted 1.5 hr before the battrey came up as discharged :evil:
Only use it as a mp3 player most of the time.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 9:03 pm 
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zandoli wrote:
jamie41 wrote:
Is this HazMat regulation an American thing? I've been buying batteries from the Far East, into the UK, for years without any hint of any issue. Is it a post 9/11 thing maybe?


HazMat regulation seems to be widespread.
It just seems like the US carriers are making some money off it by charging plenty money for the extra cardboard.

Hi guys,

I'm an infrequent visitor (and, as far as I can recall, entirely new poster) to this forum. I do happen to own a pair of Archos devices... an Archos 5IMT (250GB) and an Archos 5IT (500GB), as well as three DVR stations (bedroom, living room, and "business travel apartment" living room) and a bunch of other bits and pieces (camera, FM receiver, battery docks, HDMI dock, std. dock, etc, etc).

I love my devices. But as of right now, neither one will hold a charge, and the 500GB is showing a little bit of a hint of what I'm sure is battery swelling (which is NOT a good thing!). So I've just ordered one of these batteries. I ordered another for my 250GB piece (even though it isn't swelling) on Ebay, since my 250GB's HD is pretty much shot now and needs replacement (a whole 'nother story).

The reason I'm posting is because I have some personal experience with the battery shipping issues. I worked for several years at a company called Valence Technology, which makes large-format lithium-ion batteries... mainly "automotive replacement" sizes, but also the batteries for the Segway, for some marine applications, and for "stationary power load-leveling" in residential and commercial applications. When I went to work for Valence, they were planning to do production in the United States (I was going to lead the mechanical engineering team at the new facility, in fact). They eventually changed their minds and the whole production process is being done in China now... and so is the engineering work. (sigh)

What this means is that I became very familiar with the shipping restrictions on lithium-ion battery hardware. Our batteries were unique, in that we had a (patent-protected) chemistry which produced very little oxygen during combustion. Yes, you read that right... it's not a typo. Lithium-ion batteries PRODUCE OXYGEN during combustion. If you can start combustion of a li-ion battery in a pure vacuum, it will continue to burn, as it produces its own oxygen.

That's why you hear stories about cell phone or laptop batteries "exploding" (they don't actually explode, they just burn... very hot... and can't be put out until totally burnt out!)

This is also why the rule for shipping Li-Ion batteries are so robust. Imagine a stock of these things, improperly packaged, in the cargo hold of an aircraft. The carton shifts, a battery pack gets crushed and starts combusting... and the whole underside of the aircraft is in flame in mere moments. (And yes, that HAS HAPPENED in the past.)

International shipping is the most difficult, of course, because this form of shipping is governed not by local or national regulations, but by (yes, again, you're reading this right) UN REGULATIONS. The UN is a MASTERPIECE of the bureaucratic mentality. People who have literally no grasp whatsoever of the issues involved, making draconian regulations of every time, for reasons which may not always be what they seem to be. But in this case, there's a legitimate concern, and they've gone commensurately OVERBOARD in terms of how they govern international shipment of Li-Ion battery systems.

Basically, you have to pack each one individually, in non-flammable packaging (which needs special treatment to, supposedly, be flame-retardant). These then need to be packed inside of barrels (yes, again, you read that right... metal barrels, like 50-gallon drums for example) filled with a non-flammable mineral-based filler material. The barrels need to pass through several inspection steps, and then must be sealed so that they cannot be opened in-transit... and a series of inspections must be performed, by several different groups (supposedly to prevent "expediting through bribery").

They also cannot be transported in quantity via air. All shipments of anything more than the smallest quantity, which cross international boundaries, must be by land or (as we face in the USA) by sea.

Now, once inside of a country, the rules are basically the responsibility of that nation. Here in the USA, the rules are less draconian than the ones in the EU, for example, but quite a bit more stringent than those in, say, Colombia.

I get why this is the case... though it was frustrating to have a battery chemistry which was NOT subject to that "uncontrollable burn-out" condition and still have to comply with those regulations! And I do think that they're "overkill." But I get it, and there's at least a little bit of logic behind it.

I thought you guys might appreciate knowing WHY it's so much more expensive to ship these across international borders. Now you know!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 9:16 pm 
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niceguy wrote:
Changed my battery 6 months ago and still no issues. As a matter of fact it performs better than the original as I get 2 hours more of video playback with wifi and bluetooth on, no swelling or leaking.

Your archos is suffering from one of two issues. You got a bad battery (unlikely) or you damaged the battery pcb (most likely). If the pcb is damaged not only can't proper charge levels be displayed but worse yet the battery will never stop charging which leads to swelling than explosion.
Absolutely correct.

You got a bad battery module, or you've damaged your protection circuit PCB and as a result are overcharging the battery pack.

When you see swelling, what you're actually seeing is the production of gas inside of the pack. This is mostly oxygen when you're talking about a Lithium-ion device. The gas should not normally be produced... unless the materials inside the pack are decomposing (which normally happens when overcharged/overheated, or when physically damaged).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8R0ig0J ... plpp_video

Basically, it shows what happens when a typical Li-Ion device is penetrated, versus the technology Valence uses. The test usually involves a simple "nail penetration" though we also did demos (as seen in the video) using bullets (for demos to military types) and so forth.

Realize... once a Li-Ion battery starts to swell, it's at high risk of going through EXACTLY what you'll see in this video with the "mixed ion" pack. (Best seen at just about one minute in...)

If it's swelling... DO NOT USE IT. If your cell phone battery swells... do not use it. If your laptop battery swells... do not use it. If your Archos battery swells... do not use it.

Not unless you really like pyrotechnics. :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 8:00 pm 
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Hello everyone...

I received a private message on here, asking about how, exactly, to install this replacement battery into the "hard drive" version of the A5IT. I've decided to replicate the reply to that in the forum, in case anyone else needs to know this information:

**************************

Quote:
Hi Cary,
Are you in the US? Where did you get your batteries? I ordered one for my Archos from a link on this forum, but it was too big.
Thanks for any help you can offer.

I likely ordered the same battery you did. And yes, it's slightly larger than the original installed battery.

There are three things I had to do in order to install this, beyond the simple "unsolder/resolder" bit.

1) There are several small rubber "square cross section" bits on the upper edge of the rear housing. These must be removed.

2) The battery has folded edges. You must CAREFULLY bend these (ensuring that you don't cause the battery housing to separate.

a) The "lower" edge (relative to the screen orientation) needs to be folded so it's flat, and thus can fit underneath the main board. (I also insulated this with Kapton tape... the clear gold-tone electrical tape... to ensure that it can't short the printed circuit board assembly.)

b) The "upper edge" (also relative to the screen orientation, adjacent to the top edge of the unit) needs to be folded so that it's 180 degrees from the original orientation. It will actually then slip into the small gap between the hard drive and the case (once you've removed the three rubber bits, of course)

Yes, it IS larger than the original battery... and has a lot better construction, as well. It does work, but it's a bit painful to implement.

By the way, I'm going to repost this into the forum as well... but wanted to reply directly, since you're the person who asked first. :)


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 6:57 pm 
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Thanks for documenting this useful information!

_________________
A5IT | A101 | G9 80


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:06 pm 
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Reviving this thread as help to a new poster...


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 3:55 pm 
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Just reviving the thread again, as before, as a guide to newcomers to the site.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 4:13 pm 
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I may be one of the last folks still using their Archos 5it, but I'm still waiting for any device to come along in a similar form-factor with even remotely equivalent storage capacity, so this remains the best device for my needs yet released. (I'd drop it in a heartbeat if someone came along with a modern Android device in a roughly 5" screen size with one of Seagate's new ultramobile 500GB drives, but so far no one has done so... I'm unwilling to rely on "cloud connections" to have access to my media, and I don't want to have to carry around an auxiliary storage device all the time.)

I've replaced the battery in my device once before, but after a couple of years, I've got to replace it again. The new battery pack started swelling again. However, this pass, the screen wasn't getting "flexed," but instead the case itself was separating (and the plastic started to crack in key locations). So, we're talking about a roughly 2-year life cycle for a battery in this device. They really should have developed it so that the battery was more easily replaced.

That said... I've got the unit disassembled again, and am in the process of obtaining the right glue to repair the case fractures I'd started to see (different solvents work for different plastics, after all). I've got another battery on the way.

I suspect that this will be the final "repair" for this device. I really, really hope that the "store everything on the cloud and nothing locally" trend of recent days (which really goes back to the dumb-terminals and mainframes we originally saw back in the 1970s) and someone will start putting significant amounts of storage in our portable devices again. And starts making them so that they can be worn on our belts, or carried in our pockets, again, too.

In two years, this device will be so badly out-of-date that it likely wouldn't be worth it to repair it again. And the case will only survive just so many opening/reclosing operations.

But... I still love my Archos. ;)


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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2014 12:18 am 
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Regarding the quoted note, below...

I was replacing the battery in my A5IT(500GB) and accidentally shorted the battery protection PCBA (printed circuit board assembly). I "let the smoke out"... the PCBA is now dead (one chip is actually charred... apparently it did what it was supposed to do!)

My A5IT itself is still safe, secure, and perfectly functional (assuming I can get it powered again). But at the moment, I can't do so, as the little PCBA HAS to be there between the battery and the mainboard.

Here's the thing. There are two leads from the battery to the protection board. There are two going from the protection board to the mainboard, red and black, carrying power. Those are all very self-explanatory.

HOWEVER... there's also a fine blue wire going to the protection board as well, from the mainboard. I can't seem to figure out just what this is, nor can I figure out where it would need to be connected on a replacement PCBA (such as those below... and I have ordered one of the ones below already, though I might end up getting a different one... I really wish I could just find a direct replacement, but oh well!)

Does anyone know what the function of this little blue wire is? I'm assuming it's some sort of sensing wire, since it's so small (and thus could not carry significant current).

Has anyone done this, and figured out the purpose of that "extra wire" and how to make use of it? I'd sure appreciate knowing, in advance, so I don't risk blowing out my mainboard.

Ideally, getting ahold of a mainboard diagram would be PERFECT. I can't seem to find this anywhere, though. If not a physical diagram, a functional one would be just as good, I think. And if that's not available, just a definition of what this little wire IS... I could figure out how to use it (or if it even needs to be present!) would be enough to get me where I need to go.

I'd be sure to share my info with the rest of you.

Thanks!



niceguy wrote:
minefield wrote:
has anybody got the same issue as i do ?
after 2yrs+ of using, i am assuming that my A5IT's battery has dying eventually (it always quickly discharge, from 100% to a level of stable juice approx. at 50% in less than 15 mins. ) so i decided to bought a new battery as mentioned here.
i swap my old battery with the new one, with a help by an electronic repairman. but then we found out that the overcharge protector PCB didn't work (no current charge came out from it, although the battery runs fine), so i decide to not using it and just install the new battery. it works well, but apparently when i try to charge it, instead of charging the battery just DISCHARGE itself and drain the juice out.
so today i bought it to the new repairman and try to install the overcharge protector to the new battery. the result still the same, i can't use the protector pcb, no current charge came out from it, but then we found out that the old battery of mine still in great condition (i assume the overcharge protector itself that broken then). so i reinstall the old battery, try it out with protector pcb first. still no luck, the pcb can not transfer the juice (strange because it works before with the old one). so i tried to install it directly as i did before with my new one.
and then the issue came back, instead of charging it, the charging process eventually just discharge itself. now i got two battery ran out of juice without a possibility to charge it :((
anybody can tell me what's wrong with this ? did i miss the step, or maybe somebody can figure it out ? any help would be appreciated *so confuse



I am sure you or who ever you got to do the battery change damaged the battery pcb. If it is damaged your only solution is to buy the battery I pointed everyone to and this replacement pcb http://www.all-battery.com/protectionci ... pcb1s.aspx or http://www.batteryspace.com/PCB-for-3.7 ... limit.aspx

If adapting these replacements is beyond you than you are screwed, buy a archos 48 and part the old one out.

Seriously guys a little help with unlocking the hd plugin


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 7:55 pm 
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Okay, I did install the battery with the new "protection PCB"... but things aren't working properly. I have managed to get the device to start running... but this is very hit-and-miss. Basically, the only reliable way to "kickstart" the device is to plug it into the DVR station (I can then unplug it and it keeps running).

However, I also seem not to be charging the battery... I'm ONLY discharging. This is the same whether plugged in via USB or via the Archos-proprietary connectors on the underside.

Clearly, that little blue wire serves an important function. I was HOPING it was just an "overheating sense lead" but this is clearly not the case.

Here are two shots of the Archos board, in between the battery and the mainboard. First, the board "as-installed" by Archos (note the small fragments of debris from the "explosion" of the chip and adjacent trace on the little PCB)

Image

And, folded out a bit so you can see the underside of the PCB... and how the metal battery tabs attach.

Image

As I said, the original board is shot, so I decided to try one of the proposed "alternatives" mentioned earlier in this thread.

Here are the two boards, side by side. The top one is the replacement... the bottom one is the original Archos item.

Image

And the reverse sides...

Image

Now, the "B+" and "B-" are self-explanatory. They go to the battery. The Archos board ones solder directly to the metal tabs on the battery. To use the new one, I had to solder in short jumper wires, but this worked out fine.

Now, the "P+" and "P-" go to the load. These, I soldered (again with jumper wires, but the original board uses wires for this as well) directly to the mainboard power-in points.

Now, look at the Archos board. it has a solder-blob on the top, on a pad labeled labeled "Ht." This is where the little blue wire goes to. (You can also see a round "test point" for this on the reverse side.)

There is a "T" pad between the "P+" and "P-" pads on the reverse side of the new board, which goes to an (unpopulated) location on the PCB top side. The vendor tells me that this is where a thermistor (a device used to measure temperature... its resistance changes nearly linearly as temperature changes) and that they can provide different versions with different thermistor in that spot.

I had assumed that the "Ht" on the original Archos PCB was also to a thermistor... but that was a pure assumption on my part. And it appears I was mistaken.

It's really interesting that the Archos board is so poorly labeled, and that even the chips used are not clearly identified. In general, the small "through" surface mount devices... the little rectangles with a pad on either end... can be identified as what sort of device they are by color... brown is a capacitor, black is a resistor. There is no indicator of any thermistor present. There are also two integrated circuit packages on the Archos PCB, but they are not clearly labeled. One of them appears to have split its package, so the device inside is clearly fried. Also, the trace above that chip, and to the right, is actually delaminated from the board. (Ignore the brown "burning" on the white silkscreen material... this is just an artifact of soldering, and is a common issue, not an indicator of damage. Some silkscreen materials are good for high temperatures, but the material used on this board was "cheap" silkscreen material.)

I can easily work out the circuit diagram for this board, but I have no idea what the little ICs used in the Archos board are, and still have no idea what the little blue wire is actually for. Archos didn't label the pad on the mainboard PCB, either, so there's no indication there. All I know is that it's "Ht," whatever that is.

The best image I was able to get (which picks out info my naked eyes couldn't see... my camera has a great "macro mode") was this one. I can ALMOST make out the markings on the little ICs, but not quite... and I still have no idea what these chips actually are.
Image

In any case, it seems that this is leading me nowhere... the board is unlikely to be fixable, and the "replacement" isn't actually a replacement per-se.

So... my Archos is "mostly dead" at the moment, unless I can get my hands on a fully-working battery management PCB.

Anyone know of a place I can find one? For example, does anyone have a broken device they're wanting to "part out" or sell whole? My attempts to find such a thing on the 'net have proven unfruitful so far. :(


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 6:29 pm 
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This thread needs a bit of a update because some things have changed since it was started. About the BatterySpace.com 4358 battery. From January 1st, 2013, IATA and US DOT have much stricter regulation on hazardous materials shipped by air, especially the lithium battery. According to 49CFR 173.185 e, it can only be transported by Ground (no AIR shipment allowed) as a Class 9 material. So unless you are in the US you are out of luck.

About santana-fan's link for people in the UK.
Quote:
EBay I/D Home_Base_Repairs. They are actually Sat Nav Repairs in London
I have been in touch with these guys, they no longer provide this service. For people in Ireland/UK, I did find this site: http://www.bslewis.com/ & it says on the main page:
Quote:
SPECIAL NOTICE REGARDING LITHIUM BATTERIES

The ROYAL MAIL will no longer accept Lithium Batteries in the post either within the UK or to countries outside of the UK. All lithium batteries will now have to be shipped by Courier which will have a minimum charge of GBP 6.00 or EURO 7.25. Web orders will continue to show a postal charge, until our Web Software has been updated. Our Sales Team will contact customers with the correct shipping charge before executing the order.

We regret any inconvenience caused.


We can also refurbish packs and we can build battery packs to your own specification.


I have not been in contact with them yet, but sounds promising. I will update once I get in touch with them & find out if they can provide what we are looking for.

Here is the spec of the factory battery:

Image

It's the last one, Model CA564889


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