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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 12:22 am 
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Check to make sure that you didn't reverse the wires. Also if you let the wires come in contact with anything else you could have shorted it, or the 605 out. Good luck.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:17 am 
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Definitely didn't reverse the wires, unless I was supposed to connect the red wire from the old battery to the black wire on the new and vice versa. When I hold the power button, the LED power light will flash once and stay half lit for about 5 seconds (all while in the dock after 7 hours). I'll leave it there overnight and see if anything changes in the morning. Any chance that things would be different if I cut the wire and soldered directly to the board's contact points?

I wonder if I can return the battery and start over...


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:15 am 
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Any chance that things would be different if I cut the wire and soldered directly to the board's contact points?

Unfortunately no. If the wires are correct and they are making a good connection, then it will not matter if you solder the wire to the board or wire to wire. The key is to make a good connection and that is what soldering will do. Insulating the wires after you solder them together is key. The wires must never touch anything else.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 6:00 am 
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Great guide - thanks! The photos really helped.

I replaced my battery (after 2yrs) with one from mp3newtechnology. After I verified that it powered on, I docked it in Dvr for 8 HRS.

But for some reason, the green charge light has not come on, nor has it blinked. The unit appears to be charging, as it has the flashing "lightning bolt" on the home screen up on top right. I get the same results in the bat dock and the USB to PC as well. If tried to power off completely and restart, with no effect.

Anyone know if this is some kind of bug, or how I can fix this?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 6:13 pm 
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^ I believe you need to drain/charge (recondiotion) the battery couple of time before the blinking will work again. It's almost like the Archos is looking at the fully charged point/discharged point....

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:41 pm 
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ecsw wrote:
^ I believe you need to drain/charge (recondiotion) the battery couple of time before the blinking will work again. It's almost like the Archos is looking at the fully charged point/discharged point....


Thanks for replying. I discharged it completely with Star Wars lll, in repeat mode. Battery lasted about 4.5 HRS.

It is back in the bat dock, which has two solid green LEDs on the dock. The archos has the "bolt" in home screen, the power light is solid green, but the charge light is still OFF (not indicating a charge condition) .

Do you think I have an incompatible or defective battery?

Your help is much appreciated.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:24 pm 
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^ not sure. but I remember it took a long time for the first 2 full charges and it never blink.

I just ignor it as it was working. After a few charges, the light starting to blink.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:54 pm 
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ecsw wrote:
^ not sure. but I remember it took a long time for the first 2 full charges and it never blink.

I just ignor it as it was working. After a few charges, the light starting to blink.


Did yours have a solid green light on the chg indicator LED? Because there is no current getting to the Chg indicator LED in mine (it has not come on - at all).

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 7:47 pm 
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^ but after u put on the dock for 4~5 hours, did it hold the charge?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 10:56 pm 
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ecsw wrote:
^ but after u put on the dock for 4~5 hours, did it hold the charge?


Yes, it did, as I previously posted that the video played for 4.5 hrs, until it shut off. Apparently it is charging; but something appears to have happened the part of the charging circuit that senses the "charge condition," that would supposedly enable the CHG LED Indicator to get lit.

The "bolt" is still flashing when it is in the dock.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 11:33 pm 
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^ Then a few battery charge/discharge might get it back to normal like I said.

When I first got the new battery, the charge light was not working right (I can't remember exactly how is was). But it's working now.

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PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 3:05 pm 
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Just wanted to let people know I replaced the battery in my 605 160GB last weekend using a replacement battery I ordered through NewMP3Technology. It was like performing open heart surgery, you basically have to disassemble the entire thing. It worked though, and now I'm back to being able to watch and entire movie versus before when it would die after about a minute of video. Woo!

Now if I could just figure out why it locks up when trying to view certain music directories and files...


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 7:32 pm 
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After almost a year without my 605 due to battery fault I must give my thanks to Ali at HueStones based in Birmingham in the UK. I attempted the change, by taking all the screws out, but didn't have the confidence or the tools to do the job myself. I sent my unit off to Ali along with the battery I had bought from mp3technology. He would supply one too if you didn't have one already. Prices are far better than Archos and you get your own unit back, not somebody elses. I sent mine off to him and got it back within 6 days, including a weekend. He charges £25 to change the battery, £18 to supply a new battery and £10 Worldwide Shipping costs. A Great Service for a bargain price.
All I can say is, anyone who is not confident in changing their own battery should check out his website at
http://huestones.co.uk/archosrepair

Only fault I can see so far is no green light, but I haven't charged it yet so am hoping it might come back after a couple of charges / discharges.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 3:15 pm 
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Rob68 wrote:
Only fault I can see so far is no green light, but I haven't charged it yet so am hoping it might come back after a couple of charges / discharges.


This is the same fault I see in mine; the battery was purchased from the same website. Other than this mild inconvenience, the unit is still charging and holds its charge better than the older battery that I replaced.

Either I somehow inadvertently shorted the LED to ground, or the new battery has altered the charging circuit properties that illuminate the LED at the pre-determined voltage, current. (In other words, something in the charging circuit has prevented the LED from "going" to the forward-biased state.)

I would probably have to disassemble it again to make some measurements with my DMM, but I am reluctant becaue of the old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 5:48 pm 
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Hi,
I see some of you guys are having trouble with the green light either the charging light or the power LED.
I haven't had trouble with the battery LED yet. PowerLED yes - and the problem is that the power LED is too close to the corner where the WiFi antenna is located. So when I open units I always try to save the antenna from getting twisted. This is made harder by the fact that there there is a residual plastic tab left in the corner from the body mould on some (very few) Archoses. So what happens is that the power LED which is surface mounted gets knocked out (on at least one side) due to the residual plastic tab. You wont notice this happening, but after changing the battery if you had to really struggle to get your board back into the housing, there was some residual plastic in the corner blocking the board. The result of the exercise is that if your LED is disconnected completely you wont get any green light. If the led is still connected on one end, you may occasional find your green light returns when the loose end connects to the board (due to moving the Archos). I would not worry too much about the LED, its eye candy, as long as the device works. Besides you cant do much to save it if that plastic tab is blocking you from getting the board back in and you have to save the WiFi antenna.

You cannot solder the SMD LED back unless you can do hot air soldering. I tried, and found it is way too risky even with hot air as the blast starts melting the Wifi antenna plastic before it melts the solder, so you have to be ready to disconnect the WiFi antenna first.

-Ali
Huestones


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:16 pm 
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dimension7 wrote:
Hi,
I see some of you guys are having trouble with the green light either the charging light or the power LED.
I haven't had trouble with the battery LED yet. PowerLED yes - and the problem is that the power LED is too close to the corner where the WiFi antenna is located. So when I open units I always try to save the antenna from getting twisted. This is made harder by the fact that there there is a residual plastic tab left in the corner from the body mould on some (very few) Archoses. So what happens is that the power LED which is surface mounted gets knocked out (on at least one side) due to the residual plastic tab. You wont notice this happening, but after changing the battery if you had to really struggle to get your board back into the housing, there was some residual plastic in the corner blocking the board. The result of the exercise is that if your LED is disconnected completely you wont get any green light. If the led is still connected on one end, you may occasional find your green light returns when the loose end connects to the board (due to moving the Archos). I would not worry too much about the LED, its eye candy, as long as the device works. Besides you cant do much to save it if that plastic tab is blocking you from getting the board back in and you have to save the WiFi antenna.

You cannot solder the SMD LED back unless you can do hot air soldering. I tried, and found it is way too risky even with hot air as the blast starts melting the Wifi antenna plastic before it melts the solder, so you have to be ready to disconnect the WiFi antenna first.

-Ali
Huestones



Thank you very much for chiming in, Ali.

Good grief; I don't even remember seeing the wifi antennae assembly when I replaced my battery. It was a difficult task because I had to unsolder the ground, that connects the copper grounding strip to the back of the LCD display, before I could remove the old battery out. I tried very hard to avoid this, because I did not want to damage any electronics with the solder-iron's excessive heat. I used a a wimpy 15w iron, then a 25w iron, to get that thing off. Maybe I knocked something loose in the battery replacement procedure.

The LED, in my case, is the Green Chg Indicator. If I remember correctly, I think these are tiny "surface mount" LEDs that have the plastic "illumination" tube lenses attached to them, that channel the light for easier visibily in the Archos external casing.

Given the mico-size dimenions of these, I agree that surface mount (chip LEDs) are very hard to change out.

Sure gonna miss that eye-candy, though.
:)

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:08 pm 
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Just wanted to let you guys know that I replaced my battery with the larger (was it 5200mah?) 'extended' battery, and my charge light doesn't work either. Power light is fine, but not life in the charge light.

It's not a problem though, I get 7/8 hours of video out of it so I can do without a green light!

As for the soldering, absolutely you need to avoid shorting anything out.. but to also avoid melting your case, I'd recommend just taking the motherboard/battery combo out of the case to solder, which is what I did. It made getting at the battery terminals a whole lot easier too.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 5:21 pm 
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I really have to thank all posters to this topic.

After having a non-functioning Archos for 2 years I have finally followed all advice and fixed my dead 605. I bought my new battery on EBay and was able to specify the exact model that would be the right size. I followed all the detailed instructions and replaced the battery. I knew to watch for the antenna, I knew to be careful with all the leds. Archos sure does not make it easy to replace a battery.

Anyway... now I am just charging the battery and I hope it holds a full chage and lasts for 8 hours. Anyone know how long the initial charge should take?

Thanks again.

T


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:22 pm 
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From manual:

Before using your ARCHOS for the first time, completely charge its battery. The battery of your ARCHOS charges via your computerÔÇÖs USB port:Plug the ARCHOS USB cable into your ARCHOS (which is off).Plug the USB end of the cable into your computer (which is turned on).The ARCHOS will turn on and start charging:A lightning bolt symbol will flash over the battery icon in the task bar while the battery is charging .
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Depending on the battery's present state and whether you are using maximum charging (with dvr dock) condition, it may take as long as 8 to 14 hrs for the first time, out of the box.

In the end, the CHG LED Indicator will clue you in, when it's done.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:16 pm 
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Hey guys, well my battery died last year and the archos went into the closet till last week and i ordered a battery off ebay from http://myworld.ebay.com/best-battery/ and it came in yesterday. Today i go to install the battery and it's much to big and it seems thiner also. I've read other posts on here having the same problem, did you guys resovle your issues? So i have contacted the seller..waiting back for reply. The ebay auction clearly states it's for a 160GB like mine. battery model : CS-AV-6505SL Capacity 2600mAh Volts: 3.7v


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